Karotte (carrot)

Today's trial feeding is Karotte (carrot)

Nice color.. And in the water it goes..
Taking a little while for my shrimps to get used to the food though..

Pure Black Line

Pure Red Line

Brennnessel + Paprika

Feeding time as usual.. Decided to try this!

As the sample is not really a lot.. I tried breaking it into half.. So used it to feed my Pure Black Line and the Blue Bolt/KK hinomaru partitions..

Seems like they are taking awhile to get used to this new taste of food...

Stay tuned for other foods reviews soon..

Surprise Parcel from Germany

Came home after work.. Saw this parcel on my tabletop.. Thinking it was my wife's newly purchased online clothing but upon looking closer, it was attention to me.. I was like 'Wow' did I order anything?? Hahaha..

Then I saw a label on it.. Peter Linder.. I remembered Mr Jürgen Mörs has told me that he will be sending me some new shrimp food.. 'Yummy' for my shrimps.. Haha..

Thank you so much Mr Jürgen Mörs and Mr Peter Linder.. Will be trying them out soon..

Cute little ziploc bags with some nice and unique ingredients.. Haha.. Hope my shrimps like them.. (Paprika?? Isn't that spicy? Haha..)

Stay tuned for updates on the food..
Thanks again to the two brothers from Germany..

Acclimatizing - Drip Method

Recently I have advised some new hobbyist about the way they should be acclimatizing their newly purchased shrimps or to even shift shrimps from tank to tank with slightly different parameter.. So I shall give a better detail about how it should be done..

Firstly, you need to put those newly purchased shrimps into a container and placed it below the tank where the shrimps will be staying..

(for the video, I am running an overflow system.. So the water parameter between the top tank and the bottom tank are the same..)

Next, give the tube a little siphon to start the flow of the water (gravity of water flow from top to bottom) and tweak the valve until its about 1 drop per second..

Lastly, just clip it to the container where the shrimps are at.. Let it drip for an hour or more.. (Some hobbyist just let it drip overnight.. but its your choice.. but remember not to flood your room or empty your tank.. haha)

Here it goes... Hope this helps...

Christmas pressie!!

I have long heard and this product has always been highly recommended by my overseas friends... Decided to get for myself and try it out... Can be considered a Christmas pressie to me since it arrived me on Christmas Eve.. Hahaha...

Here it is..
Bio-Culture SMW

Here is the explanation and instructions:

Bio-Culture SMW - it's a cell activation solution containing liquid mineral of high concentration.
Effective for all aquatic organisms regardless of seawater - freshwater.
It contains more then 20 kinds of minerals.

• fully meets all mineral sources of aquatic organism
• activity of nitrifying bacteria will increase
• greatly contribute to the prevention and cure disease
• ecosystem is stabilize and the amount of water change, frequency of water change is reduced

How to use:
When used for initial tank start up, 10ml dosage for 100L of freshwater for 5 days.
Thereafter, additional 10ml into 20L of water when doing water change.
Maintenance or re mineralizing purpose - 10ml every 1-2 weeks

(All these are stated on the bottle..)

I have tried on my tank.. The shrimps went into a swimming frenzy.. Will be trying to upload a video within the next few days.. (Trying not to add too much initially so wait for the shrimps to get used to this..) As of now, there is no casualties the next day..

Stay tuned..

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone!!

It's Christmas Eve!!!!!

Alvin here wishing everyone in their best of health.. And may all our shrimp tanks be filled up with a major population boom in the coming year..

Christmas is normally in the colors of red and white.. So this is one shrimp which can portray this festive season..

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all!!

Extreme KK with berried females

This is my favorite KK.. Extreme (Full black) KK.. Growing up very well and looking good.. He is one of those which I am keeping..

Together inside, there are quite a number of berried females... Just waiting for their due dates now... Hope to see more shrimplets out soon.. (Quite a number has been bought by buyers.. Hope they are in good hands..)

2 berried mama shading themselves (hiding actually.. Haha)

This KK mosura is actually in the Blue Bolt partition... At last she is berried.. Lets hope I can see more KK mosura offspring in the coming birth... A long wait of 21-28 days...

Brown diatom infestation

Now for an update of the 2 cycling tanks of the new rack..

They are in their 35th day since starting of cycle... All the shrimps which I have selected for selective breeding are doing fine.. No casualties to date..

But right now I am having brown diatom infestation.. These should be due to the fact that I was hastening the cycle with loads of bacteria but the only logic to me is 'if the shrimps are ok, then just leave it'.. Just be a little hardworking at the end of the day to remove any of those ugly 'slime' if they are on plants.. If not, I would just let them grow... Hahaha..

This might be unsightly to most people, but different objectives for different people..

The PBL tank/partition:

The PRL tank/partition:

These diatoms are 'fantastic' stuff.. They are quite fascinating to be looked at at times.. (Although they still look ugly.. Haha)

I have put in 2 pieces of Red Nose Shrimps (the only algae cleaning crew I would use) to clear up those diatoms.. Guess I need a couple more soon..

And this is one of the 'most wonderful sight' of these diatoms..

The Blues

Guess a few people who are following my blog has been wondering how is the deep intense blue female mama which I am have in my tank.. She has been hiding and she gave birth to quite a number of little shrimplets recently...

Today, she is out for her walk again...

She is doing a little stretching and exercising.. Hahaha

And last but not least of the blue bolts today will be that weird little pattern shrimplet who have grown up a little bit more...

The Blacks

It has been quite some time since I have updated on shrimps photo.. Been busy with work and also last night just clean up the front panel of glass.. So here you go..

Now I shall update my Pure Black Line..
They are growing well..

One of my favorite female mama.. At the back with their F1 batches of shrimps growing big and strong..

My first interview (Online)

I have been into shrimp keeping for approximately 3years and it has always been an ever-learning hobby to me (and I believe many other hobbyist around the world). It is because of this point that has been keeping my passion ongoing..

Past hobby which I did not give me the sense of 'always learning something new' but when it comes to shrimps.. There are always changes and unpredictable situations to handle and learn.. This hobby also lets me get to know more friends around the world as well as to keep this hobby with an open heart so that it will be more pleasant..

It has been great honor to be asked by Mr Jürgen Mörs for an interview which has been posted on his German website ~ Bienengarnelen ~

Here is the link: Bienengarnelen - Interview with Alvin Chan

(Interview was done via email in English but was translated to German. Thank you Ulli Bauer for assistance on tough wordings)

For those who don't understand German, here is the actual questions and answers in English..


1) Alvin, you're a breeder from Singapore. How long work you with shrimp?

It has been 3 years since I started shrimp keeping. I started out sometime in 2009 (end) where I am keeping a very small nano tank (IQ3 cube) which has an internal overhead sump filtration and first shrimp that was kept are cherry and some low grade CRS/BDS. Within a month, I change away my IQ3 cube into a GEX tank of dimension 60x30x30cm.. But somehow I am not satisfied with the tank size and within 2 months, i changed to an 'aquascape' CADE tank of dimension 60x45x45cm.. When I started the CADE tank, I wanted to prove other shrimp hobbyist wrong and I did a rockscape planted shrimp tank.. Shrimps seems fine with all those rocks until approx 6 months later, i went to test my GH and realized that it was actually in the 14dgh to 18dGH range… After this, I had a discussion with my family and decided to get myself a decent shrimp rack.. I am very lucky to have a god-father who is into shrimp keeping as well and because he has extra rack, he actually gave me my first 6 tanks rack running by overflow sump system. Been using that rack for nearly 2years before I gotten another rack from another hobbyist who is stopping this hobby and also made up my mind to change the rack which my god-father gave me for a new one.

2) Alvin, how much have you aquariums with shrimp?

At the moment, I have only 2 racks and they are all for shrimps. I am not keeping any other livestocks like fishes.. Guess my passion are only with shrimps and also with some rare plants.. Total tanks I have right now are 3 tanks with dimension of 120x40x30cm (these tanks are partitioned into 3) and also 3 tanks with dimension of 120x45x35cm (these tanks are partitioned into 2).. So based on these information, I have 15 partitions to be playing around.. But I am sure I will be upgrading soon if chance arise for more tanks.. Hahaha...

3) What have a soil you in your aquariums ?

Right now you can say that I swear by ADA New Amazonia at the moment. I have tried using GEX soil, Benibachi soil, but still feel that ADA Amazonia soil are one of the better ones. To me, it might be the nutrients in Amazonia soil which is beneficial to my shrimps..

4) What are the values you get water for the shrimp?

It has been at least a year since I go into details to measure my water parameter in tank. I have given up on testing for PH unless I see problems with my shrimps or their breeding, if not.. i would not be testing them at all.. I only do regular TDS checking (mainly because its easier to just place the TDS Pen into the water and read the digital reading then to do a liquid test.. hahaha..) and also maybe GH test once in awhile to ensure that the GH is between 3dGH to 6dGH.. So in summary, I only test my TDS and GH…

5) If the water for the shrimp out of the home pipe, or you are changing the water ?

I am using a 6-stage RO DI system for my water change as well as water top up.. Whether the water is for water change or just top up, they are directly connected to an auto top up system on all my tanks. So I wouldn't need to be waiting for the water to fill as it will just fill up to the respective set level.

6) What minerals do you use and what impact they have on the water and the shrimp ?

Hmmm… I believe the initial set up is very important if you are saying about minerals. As I believe in putting a layer of Old Sea Mud Powder or Mineral Powder at the base of the tank before I lay my soil. In a way, these powders will be slowly seep into the tank's water and mineralized the water for at least 6 months. After that I would just do weekly sprinkle of either one of the powder to further enhance the mineral contents in the tank.. Also because I am using RO DI water, water which actually goes into my tanks during water change are actually 0dGH and TDS0~10… So in a way, I would need to 'remineralized' the water right? Well, I am more of an extremist when it comes to this.. All I will do is to use Mineral Supplement liquid for GH and TDS (from Mosura Mineral Plus or similar) and dose direct into the tank while it is topping up water. As for purely TDS increment, I will be using Mosura TDS Up but the same thing is that I will just scoop from the pack and put directly into the tank instead of mixing with tank water and slowly adding to the tank.. Its actually quite surprising that shrimps are very hardy if the parameters are right in their range.. Guess my shrimps are very used to the way I am doing all these..

7) Alvin, what filters you use in your aquarium and tell please specify the function of the filter?

In my set up now, I am only using canister filters for all my main filtration purpose. Each tank/partition have a minimum of 2 canisters inline together to filter the water. My reason for putting inline canisters is to give the tank lots of area for nitrifying bacteria to grow thus increasing my bioload as well as stabling the tank much better.. I have 3 tanks which have 3 canisters inline together and those tanks are very low in nitrate levels.. If I am not wrong, when I actually added in a 3rd canisters to the line, the last canister actually have grown more anaerobic bacteria which actually breaks down nitrate.. To me, what filtration is not really that important but the tank has to have a good circulation of flow (for preventing dead spots and ammonia spike on that area) also to have a high concentration of oxygen..
Secondary filtration per tank/partition will be air driven sponge filters and K1 media.. By using air driven sponge filters gives bacteria another place in the tank to grow and the output of air (oxygen) to the water is additional benefits to the shrimps as well as the tank.. As for my K1 media which they are DIY will assist to siphon water from dead spot area in the tank and since the K1 moving media is able to grow nitrifying bacteria too, then its another bonus.. I know its kind of overkill, but I wouldn't risk expensive shrimps in a tank which is under-filtrate and I would prefer to go over instead of under..

8) Which shrimpfood get shrimp?

Shrimp food is really greatly dependent on how the keeper/breeder feels over it.. There is always lots of talk about what food for shrimps, what nutrients for shrimps, but overall, I think its a good mix of food for them which actually helps in their growth, color, health.. I rely on commercial shrimp food and try not to use home-process food, firstly I am afraid of pesticide on vegetables, these can wipe out the whole colony in just a night..
Most of my shrimp food are imported from Japan direct.. I have used food from LowKeys (Japan) and Hakata/Nishiki Food, both of these food are very good in my views. They are in pellets form but when you drop into your tank, they will soften and breaks down into powder which becomes food for the shrimplets as well.. To some it might be a little messy and also cannot be removed if overfed, so caution is to be held by the keeper/breeder on how much to feed. Other wafer-like food are also fed based on my liking..
Next is powder food.. I do add in powder based food once in awhile but I always have an issue on how much to feed and it always tends to overdose too much.. This is not good so I minimize my powder food feeding to maybe once a week only.. I do like to feed spiralina powder and also some commercial shrimp powder food which i will just mixed the 2 up into a paste and add into the tank for shrimps to eat.

9) They have in Singapore for shrimp championships for the best breeder?

Shrimp competition is not held in Singapore due to the lack of avid hobbyist. It is still a growing hobby and needs a lot of education on how to do a proper set up in order to see a good community. My main motive of doing up my own blog is not only to show my shrimps but also to show people how to do a proper set up, what I am doing might not be the best set up but I believe it would be good enough even for sensitive shrimps.

10) What are the amount of prize money for the top shrimp?

Since shrimp competition is not held in Singapore, I am unable to share what is the prize money available. But if you are talking about the price of a competition grade shrimp for PRL or PBL, you will be surprised that prices can go up to SGD$5000 or more for a single piece which portray good coloration, defined body features, no mutation, etc… But I am still in the midst of trying to breed out some good quality shrimps and I have yet to reach those standard (hope in another 2-3 years I can achieve the level where Japan and Taiwan have reached)

11) Alvin, who is the best Bee breeder in Singapore ?

This I do not know.. A lot of local breeders are actually in their own group or keeping for their own pleasure.

12) What is your favorite shrimp?

To me, I love to keep all cardina shrimps. But if I really have to pick one, I would choose Pure Red Line (or CRS).. It takes lots of effort and time to really selectively breed out a good quality piece, and it is this which actually keeps my passion going and challenging..

13) Tourists who travel to Singapore. What a good aquarium shops there it ?

For tourist who is coming by Singapore, there are 3 must-visit aquarium shops
1. Clementi 328 (Clementi Florist & Aquarium) - 328 Clementi Avenue 2 Singapore 120328
2. Green Chapter - 565 Macpherson Road #01-00. Singapore 368234
3. PetMart - 151 Serangoon North Avenue 2 Singapore 550151

Thanks Alvin for the interview..

Beauty of KK

Having kept black King Kong for awhile.. It's really hard for me to keep my eyes off these 3 body patterns.. There was a period of time when I really wanted to keep them.. Now, I am able to breed them..

Black King Kong Hinomaru

Black King Kong Hinomaru No Entry

Black King Kong Mosura

The weird babies

Just like what the title said.. 'The Weird Babies'.. Hahaha...

There are 2 weird offspring which has appeared from my Blue Bolts x KK Hinomaru colony.. (Well one of them is not really a juvenile.. Haha)

Here is first one..

It's light blue green at the head portion and translucent white at the back... This one will be shifted away soon..


Now to this piece which I was showing a couple of days back.. It has grown quite a bit in comparison to that day.. Pattern still showing quite well.. Here I go..

Eat, eat and keep eating

Feeding again... This time not really shrimp ball effect but a carpet effect... Haha... But it's still a pleasure to be looking at them eating and foraging...

25th day of cycling

The 2 partitions have been cycled in their 25th day.. And I feel it's ready to put in shrimps..

I have lots if green algae growing and it's time to put in my cleaning crew.. I believe only in Red Nose Shrimp now as they are more 'gentle' and less aggressive comparing with Yamato Shrimp..

[Please do not try these if you have no confident.. Just do a full 4 - 6 weeks cycle to be safe.. Don't follow blindly, just do your regular parameter checks before putting in shrimps.. Ammonia, Nitrite must be zero, Nitrate should be below 25ppm.. As for the other parameter, like PH~5.0-6.5, GH~3-6, TDS100-230 (depending on hobbyist)]


As the shrimps I put in are quite small, and it's quite hard to take a clear photo of them without my DSLR on hand.. Here is the full tank shot.. You can see those tiny red/white or black/white dots, those are the shrimps..

Made a decision not to put in culls but the actual colony which I am planning to place inside for selective breeding.. (To safe the hassle of netting them out again.. Hahaha..)

All the best to them and they are enjoying the big tank to themselves at the moment... No feeding will be done for about a week as they have ample biofilms in the tank to feed on.. Will update on their progress...

New body pattern?

To all shrimp keepers, I believe it's a habit to just sit in front of the tank and keep staring into it with eyes lurking at every corners of the tank looking for shrimplets or some unwanted pests..

This is a habit for me every night.. (And even wife used to say I look at shrimps more then her.. Hahaha..)

I was observing this adult blue bolt with a unique 'smiley' pattern on the head..

And all of a sudden, I noticed a tiny shrimplet appearing from its hiding place in the plant... It has a very unique head and body pattern...

It's still too small to confirm on the pattern but it has a very deep black head pattern and the body has a black stripe across its back... Somewhat like a reverse pinto pattern, instead of black body and white stripe, this little baby has white/blue body with black stripe..

Lets just hope that it grows up nicely and see a nice pattern on it..

22nd day of cycling

After a day of cycling with that strong dose of bacteria... Water level seems just right..

Time to test the initial TDS of the tank's water till now... Reading is at TDS139...

Mosura TDS Up will be what I am using to raise the TDS to the required TDS level which I wanted.. I am aiming for TDS170~200 range..

After dosing quite a few scoops of it... I am able to achieve a reading of TDS178...

So now is back to let it cycle for a few more days (if I can endure not putting in shrimps.. Hahaha)...

As for the other parameters like ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH & GH... I might only be testing for nitrate and GH.. The rest of the readings based on my previous set up are roughly predictable.. Will do all if I am free..

21st day of cycle

Today marks the 21st day of cycle.. Meaning its 3rd week.. Time for a water change.. Did a 30%~40% water change on both partitions..

Auto top up system at work.. Water used is RO DI from 6-stage RO DI system...

Now for the last boost of liquid bacteria before commandos test shrimps are going to go into the tank next week... And this is what I am using..

There are 2 vials inside each 'tiny' box.. Just right, 1 vial per partition..

Here it goes.. The vial's content is going in...
And I will be placing the empty vial inside the tank to make sure all the solution or residue is all In..

Now wait for the tank to be filled up.. Tweak the TDS to my required reading, and next will be testing for ammonia (might not need) and nitrate...

Stay tune.....

Nitrifying Bacteria Facts (Or fiction)

One of the most important yet least understood aspect of a successful aquarium is the upkeeping of biological filtration and its fuction in the nitrogen cycle.

Novice hobbyist become disillusioned at the frequent high deaths rates of their aquatic pets after setting up their new aquarium.. I think this reason is why lots of new hobbyist (shrimp/fish keepers) give up within their first year of trying..

So here I hope that I can give some explanation on a good cycling and some of the details which I have found out (all thanks to Mr Google) as well as my own experience.

Here i go.........

'New Tank Syndrome' - shrimp/fish are poisoned by high levels of ammonia which are release from the soil, fish wastes, excess food and decomposition of dead animals or plant tissues. Excess ammonia is excreted into the water column by the faunas themselves also.. Effects of ammonia poisoning in aquatic livestocks are well documented which includes damages tissues (especially the gills), impaired growth, resistance to disease and mainly DEATHS..

Nitrite Poisoning - this inhibits the uptake of oxygen by the livestock.. Well, simply explained is, the livestock die of suffocation..

All successful hobbyist know about the importance of establishing the nitrifying cycle well and matured before adding in livestock, this falls especially to shrimps where they are very sensitive.. Right now there is so many types of bio-media which has proven to be very effective in bacteria colonization from splintered glass, undergravel, trickle filters and i think the most recent is fluidized bed filters (moving bed media).

Nitrifying bacteria are considered obligate chemolithotrophs (don't understand what it is but Mr Google told me so.. haha). This simply means that they must use inorganic salts as energy source, so they must oxidize ammonia and nitrite for their energy needs. They are non-motile and must colonize on surface like gravel, soil, all those bio-media which we are using now.. and they secrete those slimy, sticky matrix to attach themselves.. (Yucks.. now we know where those are coming from..) They cannot convert ammonia or nitrites in the absence of oxygen (so remember to oxygenate your water during cycle)..

Based on their biological data of these Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria and many strains among those species. Here are the information of their optimum growth and etc..

25~30 deg Celsius is the optimum growth temperature for nitrifying bacteria

7.8~8.0 is optimum for Nitrosomonas (no wonder i need to cycle so long, hahaha)
7.3~7.5 is optimum for Nitrobacter (darn.. another reason for long cycle..

Nutriments -
All species of Nitrosomonas uses ammonia (NH3) as energy source during the conversion to nitrite (NO2).
All species of Nitrobacter uses nitrites (NO2) as energy srouce during the conversion to nitrate (NO3).

Colors -
Reddish are the Nitrosomonas while the brownish are the Nitrobacter.

Before adding any bacteria(powder/liquid),shrimp or fish please make sure that all chlorine must be completely neutralized. Residual chlorine will kill bacteria and livestocks..

Most cities now treat their water with chloramines and most chloramines are very hard to remove.. The only way will be to use products to lock chloramines in their inactive state or to some will just double dose their anti-chlorine (which i will not advise for shrimp keepers)

Hope this helps to let more hobbyist understand why a good cycle is required in order to make sure that the aquarium environment is stable and good for every kind of aquatic pets going into it...

Mama came out for a walk

My most proud of Blue Bolt mama came out for a walk despite carrying her eggs... 'Please take care of yourself Big Mama'...

Feeding 'blues'

Particularly like to take photo of this tank/partition while they are feasting and jumping into a 'shrimps ball' effect..

In this tank/partition, it's the blue bolts with the KK hinomaru/mosura also has some blue based KK pandas mamas (females) inside..

17th day of cycling

Today marks the day I am seeing more brown diatoms forming on my soil/substrate... Which means that the tank is reaching 'maturity' soon...

Nitrifying process should be almost reaching a completion (but the tank is definitely not matured enough yet as it has yet to reach an equilibrium..)

BB feeding

Same in this tank.. Daily night feeding.. They are a little slower when it comes to food.. Might be because the population there is not as much as the other variants/species which I am keeping.. But they are growing well..

(Can you spot a special Blue bolt offspring which I have? Haha)

Shrimplets are not joining the big fellas as well.. And there is a little piece on the green glass which I am waiting for it to grow up.. Hoping for another KK mosura to be born..

BKK feeding

Same in this tank.. Daily night feeding.. All jump into a frenzy once food is dropped in.. These KKs which seems to be always hungry yet they are growing very slowly.. Hope to see more of them soon..

During the feeding, these little shrimplets doesn't seems to want to go join the bigger fellas but enjoying their nightly stroll on the Lowkeys brick..

PBL feeding

Same in this tank.. Daily night feeding.. All jump into a frenzy once food is dropped in.. This partition house the better grades of PBL which I started off with 4 pieces.. More selective breeding to be done..

PRL Feeding

Daily night feeding.. Here they are having a feast as usual...

And this is a sight to see.. Little shrimplet holding on to another female mama... Can you see the little fella?

15th day of cycling


Today marks the 15th day of cycling for the 'newly' started tank (2 partitions)... Nothing much been done except placing in 1 set of Oxydator D each into them...

Reason: during cycle, nitrifying bacteria needs not only ammonia and nitrite to feed, but also has to have oxygen rich water for them to grow better and faster.. If that is the case, I think adding an Oxydator into each partition should helps the bacteria to grow faster, better and stronger...

It will be in this state until this coming weekend when I will do a 30%~50% water change, a final dose of bacteria (going to be using another liquid bacteria said to be stronger than Biodigest.. So stay tuned)..

Here you go.. The photo of the cycling tank..

Oxydator D

Tonight, placed in another Oxydator to use... This time I am using the bigger unit ~ Oxydator D..

Filled it up with hydrogen peroxide 3% (bought from pharmacy) and there it goes into action..

Oxydator at work

I have always been amazed at why aquatic hobbyist has these little things in their tanks.. Have managed to get a couple sets of these wonderful products.. Here to share with all hobbyist..

Opened up the box and here you go.. The items inside..

All you need to do is pour the solution into it and its ready to 'bubble'..

Oxydator D

Here goes the explanation:

1. Pure oxygen created by the Oxydator is mostly immediately dissolved in water, so that there are hardly any bubbles produced. The oxygen supply is absolutely noiseless, expelling of CO2 and swirling of ground sediments is avoided.

2. Activated oxygen - oxygen atoms weakly bound to H2O - diffuses much quicker then usual dissolved oxygen. Therefore it reaches corners and niches of your aquarium and penetrates into the gravel providing ideal biological filter.

3. Activated oxygen oxidator even without bacteria harmful intermediate products like nitrite or hydrocarbonates to mostly harmless endproducts like nitrate, water and carbon dioxide (CO2)

4. Activated oxygen increases the redox potential (oxidation power) of water and therefore it is highly effective against algae.

5. The Oxydator is the first safe and self contained unit to offer a constant year round oxygen supply without connections or cables.

Söchting Oxydator - dimension, contents

Mini Oxydator:
Diameter 4cm, Height 6cm
Contains Mini Oxydator, 2 small catalysts, 2x 75ml bottles of 4.9% Oxydator Solution and instruction sheet included
For tank sizes up to 30L

Operational time - 2~4 weeks dependent in the tank's water temperature. Refill level can be done and controlled at any time.

Oxydator D:
Diameter 8.5cm, Height 8.5cm
Contains Oxydator D, 1 catalyst and instruction sheet included
(Oxydator solution not included)
For tank size up to 100L

Operational time - 2~4 weeks dependent in the tank's water temperature. Refill level can be done and controlled at any time.

Attention: Oxydator solution is hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide in 3% can be purchased at most pharmacy. 3% H2O2 will be able to activate Mini Oxydator and Oxydator D.

Continuation of Product Description:
Söchting Oxydator decomposes hydrogen peroxide into oxygen (O2) and water (H2O).
Advantages: Aquarium's water quality will be fundamentally improved and problems such as those aforementioned will be greatly hindered.

The Söchting Oxydator breaks down hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen:
2 H2O2 ------------------> 2 H2O + O2

For all interested parties, feel free to contact me via email for the product and I have 2 sizes available.


Welcome to the world of 'poisonous' shrimp keeping where you will deeply fascinated..

Name: Alvin (Singapore)
Email: alvin@aquarist-chamber.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/alvinchansl/
Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/aquaristchamber/

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